36 Hours in Bucharest, Romania: An Itinerary

Today we’re off to Romania. We were due to fly to Costa Rica originally on a Saturday in mid November – but our planned flights weren’t having any of it and in the end we couldn’t get out until the Tuesday leaving us with a few days and no plans. As luck would have it, my husband was in Romania anyway with work until the Friday, so he stayed on and I just booked a flight out to go and see him for 36 hours at the weekend, before both heading back and doing a quick turnaround to Costa Rica. Win win in the end.

I had a nightmare flight. I only arrived at the airport 45 minutes before I was due to leave (blinking M25) and only *just* made it. Then whilst on the flight a bit of the plane’s wing was damaged and we landed with said wing on fire, to be met by the fire brigade. I eventually arrived, later than planned, in Bucharest.

I opened the guidebook and it declared ‘this city doesn’t offer much to the traveller’. I burst out laughing. Thankfully my guide book was misinformed, as the city well exceeded my expectations. I arrived in to Bucharest late on the Friday night and flew out again Sunday late afternoon – so I had a full 1.5 days to make the most of. So to a November weekend in Romania’s capital city we go.

Itinerary Day 1 – The Old Town & Palace of the Parliament

Romanian Athenaeum

One of Europe’s most beautiful concert halls, the Athenaeum was built between 1886 and 1888. This was the period where modern Romania was emerging and its economy growing, giving it the nickname ‘the Paris of the East’. You can see the architectural influence here, and it’s absolutely STUNNING inside the rotunda and the concert hall itself.

Stavropoleos Monastery Church

Heading in to the heart of the Old Town, the next stop is Stavropoleos Monastery Church dating back to the 1700s. The site used to house a much bigger monastery, but today it’s just the church and courtyard remaining. It makes for a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city.

Cărturești Carusel

Probably one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world, this is one of the biggest treats in the old town. Not only is it super wow to look at, it also stocks such an amazing variety of books, games, toys and other lovely gifts – we managed to spend 1.5hrs in here and come out with lots of lovely Christmas gifts for family.

Lunch at Caru’ cu bere

Traditional Romanian food aplenty is on offer at this characterful old town restaurant with communal tables and tasty food. It makes for a great place to stop for lunch – I had the traditional sausages and they were delicious.

National Museum of Romanian History (or alternative)

You know me, I can’t visit a city without learning about its history – so I headed to the Romanian History Museum. It was very interesting and covered the ancient time before Romania was formed, the region’s amalgamation in to the Eastern Roman Empire, and later the spread of Christianity. It was well worth an hour or so, but if history isn’t your thing you could also head to the Romanian National Museum of Art or Romanian Jewish Museum which are both nearby.

Palace of the Parliament tour

Well. Probably the most famous building in Romania, and one of the most famous in Europe – it has to be seen to be believed. The Romanian Palace of the Parliament is famous for being the heaviest building in the world – it’s depth under the ground being more than its height above the ground. It’s just absolutely HUGE and photos can’t possibly capture how massive it is. A recent valuation put it at £1trillion, and it is bursting at the seems with marble, gold and chandeliers. To visit, you need to have pre-booked and show your passport, so be sure to plan in advance.

The building is controversial as it was built on order of President Ceauşescu (more on him later) during the Communist era. Thousands of families were displaced from the site to make room for it and the building is a reminder of this. It seems to divide opinion in Bucharest, but actually when talking to people today it seems that for many it’s the environmental impact which is most uncomfortable. The Palace of Parliament consumes more energy than a town with 250 000 inhabitants, mostly on heating and electricity (about £1.6m a month – can you even imagine). The cost of living crisis must be hitting it hard.

Itinerary Day 2 – North Bucharest (Herăstrău Park area)

Casa Ceauşescu

Let’s talk about Ceauşescu. He was the Romanian communist leader of the state from 1965-1989, when he was overthrown and executed in the Romanian Revolution on Christmas Day 1989.  It was one of a series of anti-communist revolutions that year across Eastern Europe and ended Communist rule in the country and ultimately led to the fall of the Soviet Union.

I don’t know enough to be able to form an opinion, having never lived under the regime, but what is clear is that this time period is complicated today. In a 2018 poll, 64% of Romanian people had a good opinion of Ceaușescu and if he was running today it’s likely he’d get in to power. He’s quite divisive and critics of the regime are strong so as with many things, it’s complicated.

Today you can visit what was his house and has been well preserved (again you need to have an advanced booking), though it is pure luxury at a time when most of the population were living in poverty.

Herăstrău Park

This picturesque park is a short walk away from the mansion and on a 20 degree autumn day is was beautiful to take a walk in. We easily spent an hour walking round, enjoying the colours and having a drink.

National Village Museum

Inside the park was my highlight of the visit – the National Village Museum. The Museum is an open air park full of authentic historical Romanian buildings and houses from across the country preserved and rebuilt here. It was absolutely brilliant and we loved it, spending 2 hours strolling about and peaking in all the buildings.

We then had a late lunch and it was time to head home again. With just a few hours back in the UK, we had to get the washing done and turn around for our time in Costa Rica. More on that adventure to come!