Nok Island: A Sunset BBQ to remember

Travel is my happy place, and sometimes when I travel, experiences happen which will stay with me for the rest of my life. When I’m old and coming to the end of my years, this night will be in my mind, wishing I could live it again.

We walked down to the beach to where hubs had hired a traditional long tail boat to take us to our (belated) wedding anniversary meal. It pulled in on the beach and I hoisted my trousers up, took my flip flops off, and waded to the boat.

‘Welcome Khun Hannah’ came the greeting from the ever friendly Thai captain. He was very worried about me climbing the ladder from the water to the boat with shoes in my hand so basically flung himself off the boat to get my shoes.

I boarded with no mishaps, followed by my husband who rolled on elegantly styling it out from a very definite mishap that resulted in a bleeding toe. We sat on the front of the boat, a warm evening breeze in our faces as we jetted out to Nok Island.

Nok Island is a tiny little island in the middle of Phang Nga Bay. It’s a prime sunset watching spot and the scene that greeted us was incredible. A little table, laid up with two beanbags and set for dinner, with lanterns all around, made me smile from ear to ear. There was another table down the beach from ours set up for 2 others as well, and in front of us a row of kayaks – we assumed awaiting a group for a sunset kayak completely separate to our BBQ evening (more on that later).

I was served a delicious Pina Colada as I collapsed in to my beanbag, unsure I’d ever be able to get up again. Hubs settled on a Chang beer. We were served bread and salad by our waiter, Khun Nook, as the light started drawing in and the beach stretched out in front of us.

The other table down the beach pulled in and set up on their beanbags. It was an American couple and within 2 minutes we heard the man’s booming voice screaming as he ran across the beach – ‘will you move your kayaks, they’re right in our way’. He was careering across to the row of aforementioned empty kayaks and a terrified looking Thai local guide.

The guide replied with a firm no, and in response Mr Angry American (let’s call him Mr AA) started dragging the kayaks up the beach shouting ‘well you either help me move them or I’ll drag them myself’. I mean for goodness sake, this island is a public island and the sunset isn’t owned by anyone. I wanted nothing more than to storm over and tell Mr AA to get his head out of his *rse.

My husband and I couldn’t help but laugh, it was ludicrous. The waiter was very embarrassed (he was serving both of the BBQ tables) and the moment Mr AA had moved all the kayaks, 3 boats pulled up full of tourists. My husband and I were in hysterics imagining what Mr AA was going to do to them. Perhaps he’d push them back in to the sea, wrestle them to the ground, who knows.

I was delighted when around 25 people went and stood right in front of Mr AA and his partner, who was now complaining about the sand in her shoes…not sure what she expected on a beach. We were having a lovely time our side with no-one in sight.

Eventually the group, of course, dragged the kayaks down the beach, got in to them and paddled out, leaving only us, Mr AA and his partner, a waiter and a chef on the island. We were served delicious BBQ chicken, lamb and prawn skewers as we watched Team Kayak sail out and get smaller against the ever falling sun. Mr AA had now calmed down as well thankfully, but I imagined absolutely hated having us giggling away down the beach.

After the skewers, we were served BBQ lobster with a jacket potato. A step up from my lunch time staple at home of a jacket potato with cheese and beans. At this point the sun was lowering and overhead we looked up to see hundreds of bats flying off the island. It was really quite special and a sight to behold.

As night set in, we finished up with some fresh fruit (and another Pina Colada and Chang beer), chatting away. I think when you’ve been married for a while conversation can become routine (how was your day, what’s for dinner, how’s your back) so it was nice to have 3 hours of conversation in to the night which we haven’t done for a really long time.

As we rode the longtail boat back in the dark, I reflected that I hope I never become a tourist like Mr AA, and hope to always see the world through excited eyes seeking new experiences, connections and cultures with patience and kindness. Thailand is a beautiful country, full of amazing people, and I am truly grateful to look back on this experience with warmth, happiness and memories for life.